BIKEPACKING TO TORÖ
May usually brings plenty of sunshine and warm weather, but this year had been unusually cold and windy so far. So when the forecast finally promised clear skies for the weekend, I took the opportunity to head out on an overnighter to Torö.
Since I sprained my ankle a few weeks ago, I didn’t dare go for a long ride. Instead, I drove down to Käringboda Nature Reserve near Nynäshamn and started my trip from there. I hadn’t been bikepacking since last summer, so it was a bit exciting to load up the bike again. Fitting everything into the bags is always a bit of a puzzle, but having a new, smaller tent made things a bit easier this time around.
The first stretch was mostly paved roads, and a bit further south I crossed the bridge connecting Oxnö to the mainland. I’ve driven this route a few times before with my car and always thought it must be one of the most beautiful roads in the Stockholm area—and it truly is.
When I reached Svärdsö, I took the chance to explore a small island called Bergholmen, connected to the mainland by a narrow wooden bridge. The island was dotted with charming summer cottages, and a narrow road made it perfect for cycling. I always enjoy discovering new places and hidden roads—especially on islands.
Further south, I finally arrived on Torö. I took a left turn to try out some gravel roads on the eastern side of the island. Unfortunately, I hadn’t checked the route very carefully in the app, and one of the roads turned out to be a hilly forest trail. But it worked out fine—I just had to do some hike-a-bike for a while. A real adventure should have a bit of everything, after all.
The journey continued along winding backroads. I passed Sågsten and rode out onto several peninsulas along the island’s eastern coast. Some roads were better than others, but each had its own charm.
Then I cycled west, back toward the main road, and soon reached a stunning beech forest. I’d seen it before from the car, but riding through it on a bike was a completely different experience—so much more immersive and impressive.
Eventually, I reached the Ören Nature Reserve, the spot most people think of when they talk about Torö. It’s a small peninsula filled with beautiful beaches, smooth stone shores, twisted pine trees and open horizons in several directions. It’s a popular place for surfers of all kinds, as the waves can get surprisingly big. The area feels quite unique for the Stockholm region—almost a bit like Gotland.
At the northwestern tip, I found the perfect spot to pitch my tent. Sheltered from the southern wind, I had a stunning 180-degree view of the horizon. A few people were around when I arrived, but they soon left, and I had the place entirely to myself.
I started off with a beer and fired up some padrón peppers on the camp stove—so good! It was surprisingly warm too—I was able to sit in shorts well into the evening. For dinner, I had asparagus risotto. Not bad at all.
It turned into a beautiful evening, with a magical view as the sun dipped below the horizon. This is pure nourishment for the soul.
I slept pretty well during the night. The only thing that bothered me was that the ground sloped slightly, so I kept sliding toward the tent entrance. If I’d pitched the tent just half a meter further down, I could’ve avoided that. Lesson learned for next time: always find perfect level ground!
After some oatmeal and coffee, and packing up all my gear, the spot was back to how I found it. Only a hanger remained hanging from a tree—but that was there when I arrived. Now it was time to head home.
Heading back, I kept to a mostly direct route without any big detours. The only exception was a short side trip when I stumbled upon a beautiful gravel road just north of Ören. Riding back early meant the temperature had dropped significantly, making the return journey noticeably cooler.
Around 11 a.m., I was back on the gravel roads at Käringboda, loading my bike onto the car roof before heading home. It was a truly wonderful trip, full of beautiful roads and great weather. A perfect chance to test my gear ahead of our ride around Gotland in August!
